My days
It’s been a relative while since my last post so I thought I would give an update on my days since then, thanks to those of you who are constantly keeping me on my toes and checking in daily with my blog. I apologize for not writing sooner, or posting pictures – the internet is very slow here and the power outages common – so it’s been a bit of a challenge.
In any event, sans pictures for now, I thought I would try to describe my recently established routine in Nairobi for those of you who are curious as to what it’s like here…
First of all, I had an initial crisis surrounding whether to take local transport (the matatus) to work or to hire a driver. I sought out advice from many people and the lack of consensus was just as divided as I was. The matatus are cheap, and the most common method of transport for the average Kenyan. However, in addition to supposedly being run by cartels, they are also reputed to be dangerous for their speeding, overloading and the occasional mugging. But, the government recently passed regulations requiring speed regulators, seat belts, and imposing a limit of 14 passengers per matatu. And for the most part, they’ve been abiding by those regulations, in part due to a recent crackdown. As a result, matatu transport is said to have improved significantly from what it once was – although many drivers I’ve spoken to, still detest the speedy vehicles and say that they continue to drive as if they own the road. Back when Moi was president, a matatu actually struck the presidential convoy and the very car that Moi was sitting in. It had proceeded straight through an intersection at incredibly high speed while the presidential convoy was driving on the opposite side of the road, which didn’t help. Anyway, it was either this, or hiring a driver, which is the choice of most expats, NGO workers, government workers and wealthy Kenyans (who don’t have cars themselves).
Besides the safety issue though, I was torn because since my arrival in Nairobi, I’ve been somewhat disturbed by the sharp divide between the lifestyles of the average Kenyan, and well, everyone else. There’s hardly a middle class, which is the result of many different factors – stunted economic development, high unemployment rates, mass poverty, etc., But, there’s also an almost tangible refusal to integrate the opposing “classes” (so to speak), that I think also contributes to the polarized lifestyles. So my quandary was this: do I hire a driver because it’s presumably safer and is what most others are doing, or, do I try to integrate myself within the lives of the average Kenyan and try to experience, if only a little, what life is like through their eyes? Ultimately, I chose the latter option and it’s served me well so far (knock on wood…). I enjoy it much more than having a driver because I’m able to walk quite a bit, to and from work, so I’m able to get some exercise and enjoy the hot summer sun before spending a day in the office. And, it’s always an adventure on the matatus themselves, with loud music and lots of people jumping on and off along the road to work. I’ve already become friends with many of the drivers, who recognize me because I’m the only non-African who takes that route (at least so far). The other day, they were actually blasting a good song and I asked the driver what it was. He stopped in the middle of traffic and proceeded to write it down on a piece of paper, while traffic honked and his assistant continued to bang the side of the van (which is a sign to “go!”). He handed it to me and said if I couldn’t find it to come back and he’d give me the CD. And to that, I jumped off the van as it was pulling away, very happy to have made a new friend. (By the way, the song is called: “Longing for” by Jah Cure, or Core…?).
So, that’s an exciting part of my day – going to and from work. When I get home, I’m usually hot and tired. The work day is longer than I expected – roughly 8 to 5, plus my commute. And now that summer is approaching, the weather is hot and sticky. The jacaranda trees lining the road to work are just beginning to blossom with their bright purple flowers and there are different shades of green everywhere. It’s a good time to be in Nairobi as the weather is supposed to stay like this right up until April.
As for work, it’s going wonderfully. I adore the people I work with, most of whom aren’t even lawyers. There are only 2 lawyers here, the rest are admin staff (about 8 to 10), so I’ve had my hands quite full with legal/human rights work since I arrived. The work is exciting and fast-paced in a very different way than it is back home. Because of the relatively small human rights community, much of the work involves direct interaction with the government or other influential organizations. For instance, the other day, my supervisor called me into her office to talk about a project, as I sat there, she called a taxi to come to the office in 5 minutes. Two minutes later, she told me that she was sending me to a meeting at the World Bank with its Vice President of Operations and some other NGOs. I went, and it was great, and now I’m on to other things – funding proposals, research, interviews with other governmental and non-governmental bodies. It’s definitely my kind of work – demanding, varied, interesting … fulfilling.
So, during the week, my days are usually taken up by work. Afterwards, I come home, make dinner and relax. Sometimes push myself to do yoga. Eventually pass out.
On the weekends, I’ve been able to get out quite a bit. I’ve been to a salsa club (with a very debaucherous crowd might I add), a moroccan club replete with sheeshas (aka hookahs), and a locally produced and acted play – all with my new best friend, Nafisa, who studied in Vancouver but was born and raised in Nairobi, she’s fantastic company and has been a great host since I arrived.
I’ve also been introduced to the “dawa” – a supposedly famous Kenyan drink made of ice cold vodka, lime wedges, honey and a bamboo stick used to squeeze out the lime and stir the honey. Very yummy.
Tonight I’m off to see a friend perform “erotic poetry” – which isn’t her only poetic forte, she actually has her own book and performed as a Kenyan artist at the World Urban Forum a few months ago in Vancouver (check her out, her name’s “Imani”). Anyhow, that should be interesting to say the least.
Other news: I’m planning a little holiday to Zanzibar in a few weeks, during one of the Kenyan national holidays and long weekends - of which I’m sure many stories will emanate. And, I’m looking to volunteer in an orphanage on the weekends – also, of which I’m sure many stories will emanate.
Finally, I’ve started planning the Christmas holiday travels as Ali (my brother) and Robyn (my best friend) are coming to visit. The itinerary includes a safari to the Masaai Mara and 10 days on the coast. Anyone else interested? (See: Visiting Kenya post)
So that’s my life in a nutshell for the past few weeks. I’m still working on the pictures and should be able to post them soon.
Hoping things are going well for all of you…. Kwaheri.
In any event, sans pictures for now, I thought I would try to describe my recently established routine in Nairobi for those of you who are curious as to what it’s like here…
First of all, I had an initial crisis surrounding whether to take local transport (the matatus) to work or to hire a driver. I sought out advice from many people and the lack of consensus was just as divided as I was. The matatus are cheap, and the most common method of transport for the average Kenyan. However, in addition to supposedly being run by cartels, they are also reputed to be dangerous for their speeding, overloading and the occasional mugging. But, the government recently passed regulations requiring speed regulators, seat belts, and imposing a limit of 14 passengers per matatu. And for the most part, they’ve been abiding by those regulations, in part due to a recent crackdown. As a result, matatu transport is said to have improved significantly from what it once was – although many drivers I’ve spoken to, still detest the speedy vehicles and say that they continue to drive as if they own the road. Back when Moi was president, a matatu actually struck the presidential convoy and the very car that Moi was sitting in. It had proceeded straight through an intersection at incredibly high speed while the presidential convoy was driving on the opposite side of the road, which didn’t help. Anyway, it was either this, or hiring a driver, which is the choice of most expats, NGO workers, government workers and wealthy Kenyans (who don’t have cars themselves).
Besides the safety issue though, I was torn because since my arrival in Nairobi, I’ve been somewhat disturbed by the sharp divide between the lifestyles of the average Kenyan, and well, everyone else. There’s hardly a middle class, which is the result of many different factors – stunted economic development, high unemployment rates, mass poverty, etc., But, there’s also an almost tangible refusal to integrate the opposing “classes” (so to speak), that I think also contributes to the polarized lifestyles. So my quandary was this: do I hire a driver because it’s presumably safer and is what most others are doing, or, do I try to integrate myself within the lives of the average Kenyan and try to experience, if only a little, what life is like through their eyes? Ultimately, I chose the latter option and it’s served me well so far (knock on wood…). I enjoy it much more than having a driver because I’m able to walk quite a bit, to and from work, so I’m able to get some exercise and enjoy the hot summer sun before spending a day in the office. And, it’s always an adventure on the matatus themselves, with loud music and lots of people jumping on and off along the road to work. I’ve already become friends with many of the drivers, who recognize me because I’m the only non-African who takes that route (at least so far). The other day, they were actually blasting a good song and I asked the driver what it was. He stopped in the middle of traffic and proceeded to write it down on a piece of paper, while traffic honked and his assistant continued to bang the side of the van (which is a sign to “go!”). He handed it to me and said if I couldn’t find it to come back and he’d give me the CD. And to that, I jumped off the van as it was pulling away, very happy to have made a new friend. (By the way, the song is called: “Longing for” by Jah Cure, or Core…?).
So, that’s an exciting part of my day – going to and from work. When I get home, I’m usually hot and tired. The work day is longer than I expected – roughly 8 to 5, plus my commute. And now that summer is approaching, the weather is hot and sticky. The jacaranda trees lining the road to work are just beginning to blossom with their bright purple flowers and there are different shades of green everywhere. It’s a good time to be in Nairobi as the weather is supposed to stay like this right up until April.
As for work, it’s going wonderfully. I adore the people I work with, most of whom aren’t even lawyers. There are only 2 lawyers here, the rest are admin staff (about 8 to 10), so I’ve had my hands quite full with legal/human rights work since I arrived. The work is exciting and fast-paced in a very different way than it is back home. Because of the relatively small human rights community, much of the work involves direct interaction with the government or other influential organizations. For instance, the other day, my supervisor called me into her office to talk about a project, as I sat there, she called a taxi to come to the office in 5 minutes. Two minutes later, she told me that she was sending me to a meeting at the World Bank with its Vice President of Operations and some other NGOs. I went, and it was great, and now I’m on to other things – funding proposals, research, interviews with other governmental and non-governmental bodies. It’s definitely my kind of work – demanding, varied, interesting … fulfilling.
So, during the week, my days are usually taken up by work. Afterwards, I come home, make dinner and relax. Sometimes push myself to do yoga. Eventually pass out.
On the weekends, I’ve been able to get out quite a bit. I’ve been to a salsa club (with a very debaucherous crowd might I add), a moroccan club replete with sheeshas (aka hookahs), and a locally produced and acted play – all with my new best friend, Nafisa, who studied in Vancouver but was born and raised in Nairobi, she’s fantastic company and has been a great host since I arrived.
I’ve also been introduced to the “dawa” – a supposedly famous Kenyan drink made of ice cold vodka, lime wedges, honey and a bamboo stick used to squeeze out the lime and stir the honey. Very yummy.
Tonight I’m off to see a friend perform “erotic poetry” – which isn’t her only poetic forte, she actually has her own book and performed as a Kenyan artist at the World Urban Forum a few months ago in Vancouver (check her out, her name’s “Imani”). Anyhow, that should be interesting to say the least.
Other news: I’m planning a little holiday to Zanzibar in a few weeks, during one of the Kenyan national holidays and long weekends - of which I’m sure many stories will emanate. And, I’m looking to volunteer in an orphanage on the weekends – also, of which I’m sure many stories will emanate.
Finally, I’ve started planning the Christmas holiday travels as Ali (my brother) and Robyn (my best friend) are coming to visit. The itinerary includes a safari to the Masaai Mara and 10 days on the coast. Anyone else interested? (See: Visiting Kenya post)
So that’s my life in a nutshell for the past few weeks. I’m still working on the pictures and should be able to post them soon.
Hoping things are going well for all of you…. Kwaheri.
posted by Nadia at
12:10 AM
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