December
The excitement and rush of the holidays is long gone now – having quickly transferred into my work routine and “regular” Nairobi life. Still, I feel compelled to archive our experiences – so not to forget.
At the time of my last entry, I think I was close to being overwhelmed by things here – so many things to do; so many people to try and help; so little time. I got sick. In the few days before the holidays I came down with some awful bug and was bed-ridden for almost a week. I continually crossed my fingers in the hope that my sickness wouldn’t carry on into the holidays and all the plans I’d made.
Luckily I started to feel better just in time for the arrival of my brother, Ali; my best friend, Robyn; and my Danish friend, Lars.
The day they arrived was all smiles. Atnas and I brought them back to the apartment where we popped a bottle of champagne to celebrate the onset of what was to be a very memorable holiday. Afterwards we went for a classically African meal and spent the afternoon in Kibera – nothing says “Karibu Kenya” more than a visit to one of Africa’s largest slums. There, I think they were a bit shocked – as most people are when they visit such an area. Although we’ve all seen it before on television and in the movies – being there, in the very midst of the poverty – is something entirely different. At one point while we were walking through the villages I turned around to look for Ali, who I’d lost sight of – then I saw him lagging behind with two little boys hanging on to each of his hands. They were only about 2 or 3 years old, barefoot, with torn clothes and soiled faces. And he was just slowly walking with him – taking it all in. I secretly relished the sight of my little brother on his first “adult” trip to the developing world – experiencing things exactly the way I would have wanted him to.
Anyway – the first event on our itinerary was a safari trip to the Masai Mara, which we left for the day after everyone arrived. And it was, as the pictures probably reveal – breathtaking. We camped just outside the main gates and had the campsite all to ourselves with the exception of a few Masai who were working there. (Those on night duty had to stay up to ensure elephants or hyenas didn’t come parading through the camp. Fortunately, they did their job.) We spent our days on game rides through the massive park, seeking out leopards, cheetahs, lions, elephants, zebras, impalas, hippos, crocodiles, wildebeests and so on. One of the animal highlights for me was finding a mother Cheetah with her five babies going for a walk. The mother actually decided to sprawl out on the road right in front of our van and take a nap. The babies were happily playing and running around her. One of them though, I think it was a boy, got very overprotective and angry at the sight of all the vans surrounding her. He stood right in front of our van and tried to roar at us – but it only came out as a little “mew!” – he was no bigger than my forearm. It was ADORABLE!!!!
Another highlight was the visit to the Masai village (also beautifully depicted in the photos) – where we learned just how amazing the Masai people are – living life under the most simple conditions and in a manner that is unparalleled by all modern cultures. In a village of approximately 100 people - the Masai settle for nine years before they have to relocate and rebuild. Their cow-dung constructed homes (built by the women) last “only” nine years. Their diet consists mostly of cattle, milk and occasionally, cow’s blood. The men, upon reaching adulthood, spend five years in the bush – learning to hunt and become warriars. At the end, they are required to kill a male lion. (in the photos you may see Ali, Lars and Atnas wearing a headdress that is made from a lion’s mane – this is what the men wear when they officially become warriars, having killed the lion). Their homes are small, with low roofs and beds made from cow hide. Up to 10 people live in the small 2-room homes. Since the community practices polygamy, each wife has her own home for herself and her children. The husbands rotate between their wives’ homes.
In sum, they live a very simple life and were endearingly and constantly curious at our “otherness.” Robyn taught them how to braid my hair. They loved the incense we were burning at the camp. They were entranced by our running shoes and watches and especially, our IPODs.
After spending three days at the Mara, we came back to Nairobi for a few days of relaxation, shopping and enjoying some of Nairobi’s nightlife.
The second half of our holiday consisted of what really amounted to a “journey” to Kenya’s coast. We took an overnight bus to Mombasa, which was bearable, and arrived early in the morning to Mombasa’s Old Town. From there, we made the relatively short drive and ferry ride to the South Coast where we spent three days at Diani Beach. Our cottage was right on the beach, with a large balcony overlooking the dhow boats in the water, the occasional camels strolling by, and the monkeys playing in the trees above us. With the exception of Ali stepping on a sea urchin, our stay was virtually flawless. Even that, was an experience. When it happened, I was panicking, and called over a nearby fisherman, who ended up being the cousin of our cook, Juma (small town). He was immensely helpful – told us he would go find an unripe papaya (a “popo”) to apply to his foot and draw out the spikes. So although Ali was temporarily immobile, I think he enjoyed being waited on. The beach boys and fishermen would bring us fresh coconut and fruit and all kinds of fresh fish which Juma would deliciously cook up for us. Although we might have sought out and done these things on our own – we were happy to give them business and money, and at the same time – sit back and relax.
After Diani, we left for Lamu – which was only supposed to be a 5-6 hour bus ride away. It turned out however, to be nine hours on a hot and crowded bus, going along very bumpy roads at 20km/hour. In other words – torture.
When we finally arrived at the island – a 9 hour bus ride and cramped dhow boat later – we quickly settled in our hostel and roamed the streets of Lamu. That would be how we spent most of the next three days. Absorbing the unique culture, talking to the locals, dodging donkeys, playing with the kids, going on sunset dhow rides and roaming the narrow streets and unique shops.
Hard to believe the island is now so close to becoming a war zone. I read the other day that US warships are situated just off its coast, with Somalian refugees pouring through.
Shame.
Anyway, after our lovely stay in Lamu, we came back to Nairobi for a few final days of quality time together.
It was a fantastic trip and Atnas and I were both very melancholy the night everyone left. The apartment was quiet and so empty.
That said, we were also happy to have a few days of time on our own – no work, no responsibilities, no rush.
After the New Year – Atnas went to the Tanzanian coast for a few days and left me with another bug! Once again, I was in bed for a few days. Ironically he came back to take care of me and got sick – so I ended up taking care of him.
Now luckily, we find ourselves healthy, back on track and in the routine. My mother arrives in 2 days and we’re spending Atnas’s last weekend at a resort in the mountains of Naivasha.
So ... can’t complain.
At the time of my last entry, I think I was close to being overwhelmed by things here – so many things to do; so many people to try and help; so little time. I got sick. In the few days before the holidays I came down with some awful bug and was bed-ridden for almost a week. I continually crossed my fingers in the hope that my sickness wouldn’t carry on into the holidays and all the plans I’d made.
Luckily I started to feel better just in time for the arrival of my brother, Ali; my best friend, Robyn; and my Danish friend, Lars.
The day they arrived was all smiles. Atnas and I brought them back to the apartment where we popped a bottle of champagne to celebrate the onset of what was to be a very memorable holiday. Afterwards we went for a classically African meal and spent the afternoon in Kibera – nothing says “Karibu Kenya” more than a visit to one of Africa’s largest slums. There, I think they were a bit shocked – as most people are when they visit such an area. Although we’ve all seen it before on television and in the movies – being there, in the very midst of the poverty – is something entirely different. At one point while we were walking through the villages I turned around to look for Ali, who I’d lost sight of – then I saw him lagging behind with two little boys hanging on to each of his hands. They were only about 2 or 3 years old, barefoot, with torn clothes and soiled faces. And he was just slowly walking with him – taking it all in. I secretly relished the sight of my little brother on his first “adult” trip to the developing world – experiencing things exactly the way I would have wanted him to.
Anyway – the first event on our itinerary was a safari trip to the Masai Mara, which we left for the day after everyone arrived. And it was, as the pictures probably reveal – breathtaking. We camped just outside the main gates and had the campsite all to ourselves with the exception of a few Masai who were working there. (Those on night duty had to stay up to ensure elephants or hyenas didn’t come parading through the camp. Fortunately, they did their job.) We spent our days on game rides through the massive park, seeking out leopards, cheetahs, lions, elephants, zebras, impalas, hippos, crocodiles, wildebeests and so on. One of the animal highlights for me was finding a mother Cheetah with her five babies going for a walk. The mother actually decided to sprawl out on the road right in front of our van and take a nap. The babies were happily playing and running around her. One of them though, I think it was a boy, got very overprotective and angry at the sight of all the vans surrounding her. He stood right in front of our van and tried to roar at us – but it only came out as a little “mew!” – he was no bigger than my forearm. It was ADORABLE!!!!
Another highlight was the visit to the Masai village (also beautifully depicted in the photos) – where we learned just how amazing the Masai people are – living life under the most simple conditions and in a manner that is unparalleled by all modern cultures. In a village of approximately 100 people - the Masai settle for nine years before they have to relocate and rebuild. Their cow-dung constructed homes (built by the women) last “only” nine years. Their diet consists mostly of cattle, milk and occasionally, cow’s blood. The men, upon reaching adulthood, spend five years in the bush – learning to hunt and become warriars. At the end, they are required to kill a male lion. (in the photos you may see Ali, Lars and Atnas wearing a headdress that is made from a lion’s mane – this is what the men wear when they officially become warriars, having killed the lion). Their homes are small, with low roofs and beds made from cow hide. Up to 10 people live in the small 2-room homes. Since the community practices polygamy, each wife has her own home for herself and her children. The husbands rotate between their wives’ homes.
In sum, they live a very simple life and were endearingly and constantly curious at our “otherness.” Robyn taught them how to braid my hair. They loved the incense we were burning at the camp. They were entranced by our running shoes and watches and especially, our IPODs.
After spending three days at the Mara, we came back to Nairobi for a few days of relaxation, shopping and enjoying some of Nairobi’s nightlife.
The second half of our holiday consisted of what really amounted to a “journey” to Kenya’s coast. We took an overnight bus to Mombasa, which was bearable, and arrived early in the morning to Mombasa’s Old Town. From there, we made the relatively short drive and ferry ride to the South Coast where we spent three days at Diani Beach. Our cottage was right on the beach, with a large balcony overlooking the dhow boats in the water, the occasional camels strolling by, and the monkeys playing in the trees above us. With the exception of Ali stepping on a sea urchin, our stay was virtually flawless. Even that, was an experience. When it happened, I was panicking, and called over a nearby fisherman, who ended up being the cousin of our cook, Juma (small town). He was immensely helpful – told us he would go find an unripe papaya (a “popo”) to apply to his foot and draw out the spikes. So although Ali was temporarily immobile, I think he enjoyed being waited on. The beach boys and fishermen would bring us fresh coconut and fruit and all kinds of fresh fish which Juma would deliciously cook up for us. Although we might have sought out and done these things on our own – we were happy to give them business and money, and at the same time – sit back and relax.
After Diani, we left for Lamu – which was only supposed to be a 5-6 hour bus ride away. It turned out however, to be nine hours on a hot and crowded bus, going along very bumpy roads at 20km/hour. In other words – torture.
When we finally arrived at the island – a 9 hour bus ride and cramped dhow boat later – we quickly settled in our hostel and roamed the streets of Lamu. That would be how we spent most of the next three days. Absorbing the unique culture, talking to the locals, dodging donkeys, playing with the kids, going on sunset dhow rides and roaming the narrow streets and unique shops.
Hard to believe the island is now so close to becoming a war zone. I read the other day that US warships are situated just off its coast, with Somalian refugees pouring through.
Shame.
Anyway, after our lovely stay in Lamu, we came back to Nairobi for a few final days of quality time together.
It was a fantastic trip and Atnas and I were both very melancholy the night everyone left. The apartment was quiet and so empty.
That said, we were also happy to have a few days of time on our own – no work, no responsibilities, no rush.
After the New Year – Atnas went to the Tanzanian coast for a few days and left me with another bug! Once again, I was in bed for a few days. Ironically he came back to take care of me and got sick – so I ended up taking care of him.
Now luckily, we find ourselves healthy, back on track and in the routine. My mother arrives in 2 days and we’re spending Atnas’s last weekend at a resort in the mountains of Naivasha.
So ... can’t complain.
posted by Nadia at
3:10 AM
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