Thursday, October 23, 2008

My Narrow Escape from the Cashmere Scam

A few hours ago, I was in the backseat of a tuk tuk, relishing in the wisdom of my latest investment: a 100% cashmere, hand-tailored winter coat at the astonishing low price of $300US. What a steal.

I knew Bangkok had a lot to offer in terms of shopping and I justified this rather exorbitant expenditure as something I would cherish and appreciate for a long time, for the rest of my life even!

It would be nice if that were the end of the story – the cashmere coat and I lived happily ever after, right?

Not quite.


For those of you who are unaware, I am a shopaholic and can find justification in just about any purchase if given the opportunity. Fortunately, I have now learned of the dangers that can flow from my seemingly innocent shopping addiction.


It all started this morning when I ventured out to explore some of Bangkok’s most famous cultural sites. It was meant to be a relaxing day, spent meandering through the old temples, people-watching and eating at yummy food stalls.

It started out as planned but as I was leaving the Grand Palace to move on to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha I was approached by a local, who rather suspiciously told me the temple was closed for lunch and that I could go to a few others, 10 minutes away. I thought to myself, “I’m not falling for your scam! I’ll see for myself!” So I continued to head in the direction of the temple when another local approached, this time much friendlier and much more persuasive (yes, that is my excuse for falling for the same line, the second time round). He asked me where I was going, told me the temple was closed for lunch and asked if I had a map, he would show me where I could go instead, for the next 2 hours until the temple reoopened. He drew the points on my map and instructed a tuktuk driver to take me.

Me, not having anywhere to be, thought, “what’s the worst that can happen? I’ll go to these temples and come back and go to the next, maybe it is really closed, but if it isn't, no harm... hakuna matata, this vacation is all about relaxation afterall.."

So first stop, Wat Saket (at least that’s what I think it was called), which was a mildly impressive temple with a quartet of Buddhas to admire. As I entered the point of worship, I noticed a young man praying. He stopped after a few minutes and started talking to me – he said he was an accountant, which wasn’t hard to believe given that he was well-dressed and spoke perfect english. He seemed kind and gentle. He even showed me how the Buddhists pray and warned me not to take photos while in the temple (which I later came to realize was all a deceptive act of auspiciousness!) He then proceeded to describe the temple we were sitting in, he asked if I had a map. I pulled out my map and he noticed the writing on it. He said, “who told you about the Thai Factory?” – (which the local had earlier written onto the map.) I told him, someone in town had written it, and he said, “oh, that is a great store! Only open a few times a year! They sell 100% cashmere suits you know? In fact, I’m a regular customer,” he pulled out his wallet and showed me a credit card from the store, “this entitles me to a discount,” he said. He then pulled out a piece of fabric from his wallet and said, “see, this was a sample from the suits I just ordered!”

“What a coincidence!” I thought (well, I don’t think I was really thinking at that moment, I must not have been …) Anyway, we went on to talk about Thai clothing and suits and how much cheaper it is in Thailand than back home in Canada. He asked how much suits costs there and I told him, explaining that lawyers would pay around $1000 for a suit quite easily. I also joked that he should get into the business of exporting as I heard there’s pretty good money in it.

At that point, the stuffiness of the temple was settling in and I got up to leave. I said goodbye and proceeded to walk back to the tuk tuk. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw the accountant pull out his cellphone and walk around to the back of the building to make a call. At that moment, I thought nothing of it, unfortunately.

The next stop was the one and only, so-called “Thai Factory.” A little shop in a non-descript area with the shop name written on the glass windows in fancy Thai writing, “Le Nakornsawan.” The doors opened for me and inside was a bustling shophouse full of tailors, salespeople and foreigners – all getting measured, sized and fitted in bright cashmere patterns and textures. A young and attractive man approached me, dressed smartly and also speaking perfect english, “have a seat ma’am … would you like some coffee, tea, anything?” I sat down and he lay a series of brochures and fabrics in front of me. That’s more like it, I thought. This is a nice way to spend the afternoon. I flipped through the brochures. So many suits! And coats! How beautiful! “Can you really make them exactly like this?” I asked. “Of course!” he responded. Of course they do.

We then started to talk prices and I started to contemplate what exactly I was willing to spend and whether I really needed to make such a purchase… At first I thought I should go back to the hotel and think about it, but then my desire got the best of me… the cashmere was just that soft. And besides, I’m a lawyer and lawyers are supposed to dress nice aren’t they? Even human rights lawyers should look good, I thought. And anyway, I need a new winter coat. How much would a tailor-made cashmere coat cost me back home? Much more than this.

Needless to say, the salesman didn’t have to work very hard before I was convinced.

So, it’ll be 10,000baht. But because of the credit card surcharge, maybe it was best, he said, that I pay in cash. I asked if I could just pay a deposit and he said, “well ma’am, we prefer to have you pay up front as we have to pay for the fabrics and work in the meantime. You can come in for a preliminary fitting tomorrow and the coat will be ready on Saturday.”

Okay. I guess I can live with that. And besides, there were so many people around me doing the same thing. And this shop was perfectly professional, they wouldn’t be going anywhere... right?

So I paid the money, got my receipt and their business card, and agreed to come back the next day for a fitting.

I got back into the tuk tuk to make the trip back to my hotel. There was a lot of traffic and I sat there thinking. Finally, thinking. All the events of the morning began to solidify and connect in my mind.

There was something strange about the accountant in the temple wasn’t there? Why did he have fabrics in his wallet? And why was the driver motioning me to go into the temple? And why, if the other temple was closed, were there so many people around? And didn’t I hear something about a famous “gem scam” in Bangkok? I pulled out my travel book and looked up “gem scam.” Sure enough: “drivers tell you a site is closed and take you elsewhere … you’re made to think you’re getting the best deal for the rarest materials … only open a few times a year…,”

Faaaaaaaaaccccccccckkkkkk. I just got duped. $300US duped.

I asked the driver to turn around and go back, I needed to go back to the tailor immediately. “oh noooo,” he said, “time for me to go home, tired, need to go to sleep.”


It was 2pm.

“Please” I said, “I forgot something, I forgot my wallet!” He looked at me, a bit pitifully and said, “ooooookay fine.” So we headed back and I sighed one breath of relief, knowing that if I tried to get any other driver to take me there, they’d probably never find it.

I get back and go straight to the salesman. “yes, can I help you? Something else?”

“Well,” I say, “I need some assurances that this isn’t a scam.”

“A scam? Why would you say such things? Do you think we are going anywhere? Look around you, this store has much more value in it than 10,000baht. And we gave you a receipt! We’ve already put your order through.”


I looked around helplessly. This time there were no more foreigners in the shop, just a half-dozen salespeople. The salesman recalled, “there were so many people in here remember? We sold so many suits! You have nothing to worry about.”

I saw a computer at the cash register and asked him if I could use it to look at their website. He said, “oh well, my manager is on it right now and she’s talking to clients, you see, we have many international clients…”

I walked over to the computer and the woman on it was playing poker.

I asked nicely, “can I use the computer for a moment?” “Sure.” I sat down and typed in their website from their business card. A website popped up. Looked pretty good. “Fabrics” “Order Online” “Payment Options”

Hmm.

I looked over my shoulder and saw the salespeople all peering at me cautiously.

I quickly typed in “Le Nakornsawan” and “scam,” then hit enter.

Numerous entries popped up: “… biggest SCAM ever…” “NEVER do business there…” “most elaborate scam…”

FUCK. FUCK. FUCK.

I turn around and tell the salesman I want my money back. This time the real manager is with him. He says, angrily, “why?” I point to the computer and say, “because this is all a scam! I know it is, now give me my money back,” and he says, “No. We’ve just done business with you. This isn’t a scam, if you have a problem, go to the police.”

I recalled a notation in my travel guide saying the police don’t do anything.

This time, the wheels were turning.


I responded, “fine. I’ll just stay here then.” I sat down and he looked at me totally perplexed.


“I’ll just stay here and tell every single customer that comes in, that this is a scam.”

He reddened and this time nearly yelled, “You’ll stay here?? Then I’ll call the police on you!”

This time I had to laugh. I said, “Yes!! Please do! Call the police, I’d LOVE to see them! In fact, all of us can have a little chat! Here’s the phone.” I pushed it towards him.


He stared at me in disbelief and began pacing. Speaking Thai to all the other employees who stood watching silently.

He then sneakily tried to take the business card I had lieing on the counter. I snatched it back.
I told him, “it’s a small amount you have to give me, otherwise I can make your life very difficult believe me… give me my money and I’ll walk away and let you do your business.”

He paused for a few moments and then motioned to the cashier, instructing her in Thai. She opened the register and counted, 10,000baht. “Give me your receipt and my business card,” he said. “Give me the money.” I said. We both put them down on the counter at the same time. I counted the money quickly and stormed out. From outside, I could see all the salespeople standing at the window watching me. Spitefully, I took out a pen and wrote the name of the store down, gave them one final glare and spun around to catch a ride back.

I eventually did make it back to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, whose tranquility I just couldn’t absorb after the morning I had experienced. So I left after a brief observation and tried to catch a ride back.

As I approached the line of colourful tuk tuks, I heard, “where you wanna go? I take you Thai Factory!!”

Forget it. I think I’ll just walk.

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